Sunday, March 29, 2009

Pure Tour, Part 2: Salzburg

We are back at the base camp in Innsbruck again. The show in Salzburg went really well and we had a nice bouldering session before and after at the gym. We were syked to go bouldering in Maltatal but the weather wasn't on our side.

Busting some tricks with the scooter, (c) Chuck Fryberger

Now it is raining in Austria and the forecast looks pretty depressing. The next show is in Verona, Italy on Friday and we want to climb before that, but it looks like it will be raining all over Europe. Negative!! Ticino seems to be out of the question. Meschia is another option for bouldering, but it seems the weather will be bad there too.

Kilian whipping the crowd, (c) Chuck Fryberger

We've been training at Tivoli with Kilian Fischuber a couple times now, because the weather has been quite bad for this time of year. He keeps showing us these crazy problems that are actually really fun to climb. It's always a good workout pretty much for everything else, but not so much for finger strength. Luckily for increasing our finger strength, we have been playing a game called Catch-a-Mouse on my Ipod. That one we actually already beat, but now Chuck got addicted to a new game called Tap Tap Revenge 2 and has been playing it pretty much non-stop. He has already scored 259 116 points and his endurance has never been better. Now all he is talking about are multipliers and high scores.

Cody breakdancing in Salzburg

We are all hoping the weather gets better and we get to go climbing. If not, at least there is a lot of fresh snow up on the mountains so for snowboarding it should be good now. I only have another week left in Europe before I'm flying to Japan for three weeks, so I'm syked to climb while I'm still here.

Austrian way of promoting just another regular night at the club

Thursday, March 26, 2009


I'm back in Innsbruck after a quick 2-day trip to Switzerland. The weather failed us in Austria so we drove some hours west to escape to Chironico.

On the first day I tried Frontline, a cool problem from Bernd. The crux on Frontline is a dynamic lunge from a very small and sharp sidepull to the top. I had problems fully committing to the move and sacrificing my skin, but once I figured out the foot beta I went for it. I got he hold perfect and pulled hard. I knew that was it, until the whole sidepull ripped off the wall. A big piece of rock came off and once again I had blood all over me. Schaisse! Luckily I was fine except for donating quite a respectable amount of blood. I climbed again later that day, but took it pretty easy for the rest of the day.

Yesterday we climbed some nice easier problems in Schattental and it was fun. I finally managed to get revenge on an 8A+ called Passo Ticino. It's a tall highball that Dave Graham put up a couple years back. Last time I was in Chironico I climbed it 3 times to the top hold, but I couldn't top it out because there was so much ice and I had to drop off from the top jug. This time instead of ice there was only water and I was determined not to drop off for the fourth time. Great success! As far as I know it was the first repeat, since not too many people even try this scary highball. It's a quality problem and stiff for the grade, I thought.

We had some trouble getting in to Switzerland because none of us really had any proper ID, not to even mention our passports. One day I also tried to pay with euros at a gas station, and I found out we were not in Austria but in Switzerland, because they wanted to give me my change back in Swiss Francs.

Tomorrow we are heading to Salzburg for a Pure screening. Red Bull is sponsoring the event and it should be a good party again! After that the plan is to go bouldering in Maltatal and/or Varazze depending on the weather.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Pure Tour, Part 1: Austria

I've been here in Austria for a few days now with Cody and Chuck and it's been great. The Pure tour is on and so far we have done two shows here in Austria, one in St. Anton on Friday and one in Innsbruck last night. The shows have been good and a lot of people showed up. The next screenings coming up are in Zurich on Thursday and in Salzburg on Friday. Now we have a few days to go snowboarding and hopefully climbing if the weather allows.

The biggest achievement of the trip so far has been beating a game called Catch-a-Mouse. Chuck managed to solve all the 35 levels on hard in one session. I've done all the levels, but I'm still working on the link-up.

Here is Chuck playing the game:

Beat the Finn!

Cody doing something wierd

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

I just received a password for my account, for the first time. Until now, someone still unknown to me has been keeping my scorecard and I never really had anything against that. It's just that when an ascent is logged to, people usually take the grade as my personal opinion, while in fact I've had no say in it. Also people have been sending me messages through, but obviously I've been unable to answer them. So, I figured it's time to take control of my own account. After all, it is a really good way to keep track of what you've climbed over the years. That's it, that's all.

Here's a couple photos of a very good problem in Finland called Never Land, 7C:ish. Still unrepeated.

Monday, March 16, 2009

Blockwork Orange

Here's a short homemade film of our trip to South Africa last summer. It includes first ascents from a new area, but also some of the old classics. Thanks to Tommy Vänskä, Ville Kurru and Jarkko Parkkinen. Enjoy!

Finnish Bouldering Nationals

Last Saturday I competed in the Finnish Bouldering Nationals in Helsinki. The competition was very well arranged and the problems from Markku Tawast were excellent! It was a very good show and I was happy to win ahead of Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Andy Gullsten. Roosa Huhtikorpi won the women's category.


1. Nalle Hukkataival
2. Kuutti Huhtikorpi
3. Anthony Gullsten
4. Matti Joensuu
5. Rasse Ruokonen
6. Joonas Sailaranta


1. Roosa Huhtikorpi
2. Anna Laitila
3. Matilda Nordman
4. Ansku Sihvonen
5. Minna Ruokonen
6. Veera Kainiemi

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Hueco photos

Here are some random pictures from Hueco Tanks that I just finished editing:

East Mountain

Dyno madness (and no, this is not posed)

Bleeding Brothers, V12

The Martini boulder and Tequila Sunrise V13

Monday, March 9, 2009


So, I'm back in Finland and it's snowing. Big surprise. Well, not really but I was expecting the weather to be better when I flew here. I might flee to Austria any day now in search of better weather. Anyway, last Saturday there was a premiere in Helsinki for the movie Pure, which went pretty well. It's good to notice how I seem enjoy the movie more and more every time I see it. That is a sign of a good movie if you ask me. Also, I think Chuck did a very good job with putting together the soundtrack. I'm really pleased with the music in the film.

Here is a short clip from last fall. We shot this at about 1 A.M, after hours of setting up camera equipment. This is the first ascent of a highball problem in Finland that I named '1up'. With about 9 meters height and the landing dropping away at the end, it is quite scary. The problem starts by climbing an 8A+ called Hottentotti, but instead of dropping off half way up, 1up climbs all the way to the top of the wall. The upper section isn't very physical climbing, but technically and mentally hard for sure. As the landing drops off at about 6-7 meters, falling off after that point isn't really an option. I felt like the last five metres of climbing surely add one grade, therefore the grade 8B.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Tomorrow in Helsinki!

Saturday 7.3 18.00
at Boulderkeskus, Helsinki

About the film...
From the producer of Dosage V - Alpine Blocs comes a 35mm bouldering flick about bouldering on planet Earth: PURE. Pure is about 19 extraordinary climbers in six countries on three continents , with no ropes. This is the first bouldering film to be shot entirely in cutting edge 35mm digital format.

PURE website

Make sure not to miss it!

PURE - A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

Over and Out

My trip to Hueco is over. Now I'm sitting in my home in Helsinki, jetlagged after 3 long flights trying to wake up by drinking coffee. It's not working very well. The weather in Hueco got unbearably hot and it was time to make a move. There are still so many problems left that didn't even get to try and countless projects that I want to try. We really only had a few days with good conditions, so I am very satisfied with what i climbed, especially my two V13 first ascents The Machinist and Tequila Sunrise.

Tequila Sunrise is a sitstart to Dirty Martini on the Rocks. I can't believe it hasn't been climbed before. It's really obvious and the moves and holds are awesome! I'll try to get a photo from Andy Mann who took some nice photos of the first ascent.

It's the end of a trip, but also beginning of a something new. I had a great time in Hueco and met a lot of new people, but it is definitely time for a change. I'm sick of the desert and eating Mexican food every day. I need to let my body fully recover and take it easy for a few days. Tomorrow I'm hosting a screening for the movie Pure in Helsinki. After that I might continue the Pure tour and go to Austria to chill for a couple of weeks. Early April I'm off to Japan! I can't wait!

Here's my final ticklist from this trip:

Darkroom V12
Alma Blanca V13
Power of Silence V10 FLASH
Diaphanous Sea V12? FLASH

Cage Free V10
Freak Brothers V10 FLASH

Full Service V10 FLASH
Full Throttle V13
Le Pelerien V12 FLASH
Algerita V13
Right Martini V12
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 FLASH
Coeur de Leon V13
Full Monty V12 FLASH
Windy ass V10?
The Machinist V13 FA
Nagual V13
The Flame V12
El Techo de los Tres B's V12
Wonderdyno V10 FLASH
Tequila Sunrise V13 FA
Doggy Jump V10
Bleeding Brothers V12
Free Willy V10 FLASH

Tequila Sunrise V13

Cage Free V10, Boulder Canyon, Colorado