Thursday, July 2, 2009

Change of scenery

My trip to Colorado in now over and I’m on my way to South Africa. I’m really satisfied with what I managed to climb in Colorado, especially since the weather was really bad at first. Climbing Jade was my primary goal and after quickly dispatching it, I was able to focus on other things like making one of my best FA’s, Sunseeker and repeating classics. Check out this excellent video of Carlo Traversi doing the second ascent of Sunseeker at

Nuthin' but sunshine, V13

My flight arrives in Cape Town tomorrow at 4 PM local time. I can’t wait to get to the Rocklands! As much fun as Colorado was, I don’t think I’ve ever been more distracted from climbing on a climbing trip. It was interesting to see that even though climbing seemed secondary most of the time, I could still climb really well. Rocklands will be different, though. I’m really psyched to get back to the same routine there, as I had going on last year; getting really fit by climbing pretty much every day.

Jade, V15

This year the name of the game will be first ascents. I have plenty of time and only a few problems that I want to repeat. My goal is to find and develop new areas and problems. I also hope to find something really hard and inspiring, that I get psyched to work on for a longer time. That’s something that I’ve always wanted to do, but never really have. That is because for me it is very important that a line I’ll spend a lot of time working on, is actually a good one, not just hard. A project that is hard enough, but not too hard and inspiring to work on at the same time, is incredibly difficult to come across. However, I believe that if anywhere, Rocklands is the place where you can find a line like this.

In South Africa internet access is very limited, but I’ll try to update the blog when I can.

8th Day of Rain area in Rocklands

Here’s my ticklist from Colorado:

Jade, V15
Sunseeker, V13 FA
Whispers of wisdom, V11
Kind traverse, V11
Storm Shadow, V12
Gobot V11, Flash
The Automator, V13
Wildcat, V11?
Nuthin but sunshine, V13

Sunset at Mt. Evans

Nuthin' but Sunshine

Mt. Evans

Lake Kayaha

Alpha Farms at Rocklands