Hueco photos

Here are some random pictures from Hueco Tanks that I just finished editing:

East Mountain

Dyno madness (and no, this is not posed)

Bleeding Brothers, V12

The Martini boulder and Tequila Sunrise V13

1up

So, I'm back in Finland and it's snowing. Big surprise. Well, not really but I was expecting the weather to be better when I flew here. I might flee to Austria any day now in search of better weather. Anyway, last Saturday there was a premiere in Helsinki for the movie Pure, which went pretty well. It's good to notice how I seem enjoy the movie more and more every time I see it. That is a sign of a good movie if you ask me. Also, I think Chuck did a very good job with putting together the soundtrack. I'm really pleased with the music in the film.

Here is a short clip from last fall. We shot this at about 1 A.M, after hours of setting up camera equipment. This is the first ascent of a highball problem in Finland that I named '1up'. With about 9 meters height and the landing dropping away at the end, it is quite scary. The problem starts by climbing an 8A+ called Hottentotti, but instead of dropping off half way up, 1up climbs all the way to the top of the wall. The upper section isn't very physical climbing, but technically and mentally hard for sure. As the landing drops off at about 6-7 meters, falling off after that point isn't really an option. I felt like the last five metres of climbing surely add one grade, therefore the grade 8B.

Tomorrow in Helsinki!

Saturday 7.3 18.00
at Boulderkeskus, Helsinki

About the film...
From the producer of Dosage V - Alpine Blocs comes a 35mm bouldering flick about bouldering on planet Earth: PURE. Pure is about 19 extraordinary climbers in six countries on three continents , with no ropes. This is the first bouldering film to be shot entirely in cutting edge 35mm digital format.

PURE website

Make sure not to miss it!


PURE - A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

Over and Out

My trip to Hueco is over. Now I'm sitting in my home in Helsinki, jetlagged after 3 long flights trying to wake up by drinking coffee. It's not working very well. The weather in Hueco got unbearably hot and it was time to make a move. There are still so many problems left that didn't even get to try and countless projects that I want to try. We really only had a few days with good conditions, so I am very satisfied with what i climbed, especially my two V13 first ascents The Machinist and Tequila Sunrise.

Tequila Sunrise is a sitstart to Dirty Martini on the Rocks. I can't believe it hasn't been climbed before. It's really obvious and the moves and holds are awesome! I'll try to get a photo from Andy Mann who took some nice photos of the first ascent.

It's the end of a trip, but also beginning of a something new. I had a great time in Hueco and met a lot of new people, but it is definitely time for a change. I'm sick of the desert and eating Mexican food every day. I need to let my body fully recover and take it easy for a few days. Tomorrow I'm hosting a screening for the movie Pure in Helsinki. After that I might continue the Pure tour and go to Austria to chill for a couple of weeks. Early April I'm off to Japan! I can't wait!

Here's my final ticklist from this trip:

Darkroom V12
Alma Blanca V13
Power of Silence V10 FLASH
Diaphanous Sea V12? FLASH

Colorado:
Cage Free V10
Freak Brothers V10 FLASH

Full Service V10 FLASH
Full Throttle V13
Le Pelerien V12 FLASH
Algerita V13
Right Martini V12
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 FLASH
Coeur de Leon V13
Full Monty V12 FLASH
Windy ass V10?
The Machinist V13 FA
Nagual V13
The Flame V12
El Techo de los Tres B's V12
Wonderdyno V10 FLASH
Tequila Sunrise V13 FA
Doggy Jump V10
Bleeding Brothers V12
Free Willy V10 FLASH

Tequila Sunrise V13

Cage Free V10, Boulder Canyon, Colorado

Photo update

Seems like the weather here is just getting hotter every day. Yesterday I managed to climb Nagual V13 and The Flame V12 even though it was the hottest day of the trip, around 90 degrees. With these temps skin gets destroyed before you even know it. A lot of the hard boulders here are just out of the question without good conditions. Tomorrow we will wake up early and try to make the best of the decent temperatures in the morning. The Rock Rodeo is on Saturday but I don't know if I want to compete in this heat and wreck my skin completely.

Nagual V13


Nagual V13


The Machinist is on this boulder

The Machinist V13

The Machinist

Flashing Full Monty V12

East Mountain

Jingus Bells V7