Thursday, March 26, 2009


I'm back in Innsbruck after a quick 2-day trip to Switzerland. The weather failed us in Austria so we drove some hours west to escape to Chironico.

On the first day I tried Frontline, a cool problem from Bernd. The crux on Frontline is a dynamic lunge from a very small and sharp sidepull to the top. I had problems fully committing to the move and sacrificing my skin, but once I figured out the foot beta I went for it. I got he hold perfect and pulled hard. I knew that was it, until the whole sidepull ripped off the wall. A big piece of rock came off and once again I had blood all over me. Schaisse! Luckily I was fine except for donating quite a respectable amount of blood. I climbed again later that day, but took it pretty easy for the rest of the day.

Yesterday we climbed some nice easier problems in Schattental and it was fun. I finally managed to get revenge on an 8A+ called Passo Ticino. It's a tall highball that Dave Graham put up a couple years back. Last time I was in Chironico I climbed it 3 times to the top hold, but I couldn't top it out because there was so much ice and I had to drop off from the top jug. This time instead of ice there was only water and I was determined not to drop off for the fourth time. Great success! As far as I know it was the first repeat, since not too many people even try this scary highball. It's a quality problem and stiff for the grade, I thought.

We had some trouble getting in to Switzerland because none of us really had any proper ID, not to even mention our passports. One day I also tried to pay with euros at a gas station, and I found out we were not in Austria but in Switzerland, because they wanted to give me my change back in Swiss Francs.

Tomorrow we are heading to Salzburg for a Pure screening. Red Bull is sponsoring the event and it should be a good party again! After that the plan is to go bouldering in Maltatal and/or Varazze depending on the weather.

1 comment:

  1. Anonymous26/3/09 15:24

    enpƤ ole aivan varma, mutta muistikuvani mukaan dunningin steve olis kiivennyt passo ticinon pari vuotta sitten. hienosti kiivetty joka tapauksessa. harmillista tuo frontlinen vittuilu.

    yt. olli


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