Friday, March 6, 2009

Over and Out

My trip to Hueco is over. Now I'm sitting in my home in Helsinki, jetlagged after 3 long flights trying to wake up by drinking coffee. It's not working very well. The weather in Hueco got unbearably hot and it was time to make a move. There are still so many problems left that didn't even get to try and countless projects that I want to try. We really only had a few days with good conditions, so I am very satisfied with what i climbed, especially my two V13 first ascents The Machinist and Tequila Sunrise.

Tequila Sunrise is a sitstart to Dirty Martini on the Rocks. I can't believe it hasn't been climbed before. It's really obvious and the moves and holds are awesome! I'll try to get a photo from Andy Mann who took some nice photos of the first ascent.

It's the end of a trip, but also beginning of a something new. I had a great time in Hueco and met a lot of new people, but it is definitely time for a change. I'm sick of the desert and eating Mexican food every day. I need to let my body fully recover and take it easy for a few days. Tomorrow I'm hosting a screening for the movie Pure in Helsinki. After that I might continue the Pure tour and go to Austria to chill for a couple of weeks. Early April I'm off to Japan! I can't wait!

Here's my final ticklist from this trip:

Darkroom V12
Alma Blanca V13
Power of Silence V10 FLASH
Diaphanous Sea V12? FLASH

Cage Free V10
Freak Brothers V10 FLASH

Full Service V10 FLASH
Full Throttle V13
Le Pelerien V12 FLASH
Algerita V13
Right Martini V12
Barefoot on Sacred Ground V12 FLASH
Coeur de Leon V13
Full Monty V12 FLASH
Windy ass V10?
The Machinist V13 FA
Nagual V13
The Flame V12
El Techo de los Tres B's V12
Wonderdyno V10 FLASH
Tequila Sunrise V13 FA
Doggy Jump V10
Bleeding Brothers V12
Free Willy V10 FLASH

Tequila Sunrise V13

Cage Free V10, Boulder Canyon, Colorado


  1. Anonymous6/3/09 21:28

    Nice blog you have and nice sends. Just wondering if you participated to the rock rodeo and if yes, how did you do?

    Br. Brian Smith

  2. No, I did not compete in the Rodeo. Since I only had a few days left of my trip by then, I decided to save my skin for problems I had not yet climbed.


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