Sunday, February 13, 2011


After spending a few days in Las Vegas and climbing at Red Rocks we've made our way to Bishop. The weather has been perfect the whole time. On our first day we climbed a bunch of easier problems in the Buttermilks main area. The Southwest Arete on the Grandma peabody was a perfect introduction to Bishop highballs. I also climbed the classic Stained class V10 later that day.

Buttermilks main area
The second day we climbed Haroun and the Sea of Stories, an amazing V11 in the Buttermilks. Later that day we hiked to the Secrets of the Beehive area to check out The Swarm. I felt already quite trashed from climbing easier problems all day, but I thought I would try it anyway and I actually sent the problem pretty quickly. It's for sure one of the coolest crimp lines I've climbed and the double gaston move in the middle is amazing.  As for the grade, I think V13 would be more appropriate than V14.
South West Arete on the Grandma Peabody

Next day we warmed up again in the main area of Buttermilks. Then, for some reason we decided to try Mandala when it was in the sun. After a while of shredding skin on the warm crimps, I got to last moves but could not even hang on the good incut crimps that had been baking in the sun. So we waited for the sun to go behind the mountains and the conditions improved immediately. I quickly sent the stand start (from the original start) and so did Kilian. I gave the sitstart a few goes and quickly afterwards sent it too. Both the stand and the sit are world class problems, no doubt.

Suspended in Silence V5
We've done a lot of hiking and checked out most of the areas already. There are lots of problems that I want to do like This Side of Paradise, Evilution, Spectre and many others. If the weather stays like this there should be more to report soon.


  1. Keep crushing dude..
    Is robinson's testpiece "lucid dreaming" part of the "many others" you are referring to above?


  2. Good effort Nalle. When can we expect some video footage?


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