Sunday, February 21, 2010

Spain and CORE

Not much has been going on lately. I've been trying to get some endurance by climbing some easier routes around 8a+ - 8b. I feel like my endurance has finally improved enough to start trying the hard routes. We've been climbing mainly in Oliana lately, where all the routes are extremely long, but also a little bit in Margalef where all routes are much shorter. I've been syked on the long routes that are really hard for me, instead of getting on the short ones that I know I can do.

Since there's not much to report right now, here's a bunch of photos instead:

 
Margalef

 Oliana

Humildes pa casa

 
Humildes pa casa, the best tufa in Spain!

Oliana

Dave checking out a boulder project

 
Lleida

Les Avellanes

Lleida

 Oliana



On another topic, Chuck Fryberger's new film CORE is coming out soon. I'll let the trailer speak for itself. Check it out here soon:

Monday, January 25, 2010

Cataluña

I've been sport climbing here in Catalonia, Spain for over a week now and it's been really fun. The bad weather all over Europe made me change my plans and I decided to come here to hang out with the crew. Overall the weather has been pretty good here, but Margalef is still wet for the most part, so we've been climbing a lot in Oliana.


Boira in Les Avillanes

Oliana is an amazing cliff with very long hard routes. Most of the routes are between 8b and 9a+. For a boulderer like me, climbing in Oliana has been very effective endurance training. I actually feel like I've gained a lot endurance in just a week and soon I can seriously start trying some hard routes. I can't wait for Margalef to dry up so we get to try some shorter routes also.


Dave on Fish eye, Oliana

Yesterday I actually managed to climb something by doing the first repeat of Duele la realidad, 8c+ in Oliana. To the right of Duele la realidad is a really hard project, that Chris bolted a few days ago. It has a very hard bouldery start. I managed to do all the moves of the first part yesterday, but linking them is going to be a challenge.


 Jon Cardwell using his Mexican ninja beta on Duele la realidad

We have spent our restdays looking for boulders. From what I understand, not many people boulder here and even fewer actually go looking for boulders, so there's a lot of bouldering to be discovered.






 Nalle Hukkataival trying Identifacation y placas, 8c


Chad filming in Oliana

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Pure available as HD dowload

Chuck Fryberger's latest film Pure is now available as HD download from Bouldering.com. I just downloaded it and it looks really good in high definition. Get it here for $14.99 (~10 euros)

Here's the trailer:



Pure is about 19 extraordinary climbers in six countries on three continents, with no ropes.

Featured Climbers:

Nalle Hukkataival: This young Finnish climber has put in his time on the world cup circuit and is now focusing on climbing the most daunting boulders on Earth.


Kevin Jorgeson: Pure features exclusive footage of Kevin's first ascents and first ropeless ascents in California. A Unique
perspective on the mind control necessary to solo, and the rehabilitation needed when you screw up.


Kilian Fischhuber: Winner of the Mens 2008 Bouldering World Cup. No climber has ever had a more dominant season on the World Cup
Circuit then Kilian, and few have the sense of humor.


Anna Stoehr: Winner of the Womens 2008 Bouldering World Cup. Professional Climber. 20 years old.


Fred Nicole: No introduction needed. The author of the lion's share of hard boulder problems in the world. The leader and grand master of the sport.


Cody Roth: Psyched to get on just about anything, PURE showcases Cody on hair-raising first ascents from Rocklands to Europe.


Areas Featured:


Rocklands, South Africa.
Sonoma County, California.
Fountainebleu, France.
Innsbruck, Austria.
Colorado.
Arco, Italy.
La Vallei, Magic Wood, and Brione Switzerland




Join these visionary climbers as they test their limits against the rock of planet earth in search of Taller, Harder, Cleaner, and Farther. 

Friday, December 25, 2009

Could Be Worse

Finally the film is finished. None of us know anything about filming or editing so we decided on the name Could Be Worse. I personally think it turned out pretty decent, so here it is. Please send all negative feedback to wedontcare@zer0skillz.com.



A short bouldering film (27 min) shot in Ticino, Switzerland and Maltatal, Austria. Starring Nalle Hukkataival and Kuutti Huhtikorpi.

List of problems:

Switzerland:
Conquistador, 8A+
Ninja Warrior, 7C+ FA
Schule des Lebens, 8A+
Nameless, 6C+
Special Edition, 8A
Fake Pamplemousse, 8A
Walker on Earth, 8A
Ninja Skills, 8B+ FA

Maltatal:
Wrestling with an Alligator, 8B
The Power of Goodbye, 8B
Marmelade auf der Schulter, 8A



I also added a video of Ninja Skills to my previous post (also in the film).

Enjoy!

Monday, December 21, 2009

Ninja Skills

Two week ago I found the Ninja project in Sobrio. I cleaned it started working on it the next day. It turned out to be harder than it looks and the first day we spent trying to figure out the upper section. After lots of tries with countless different ways, I tried something out of the box. Smearing my left foot on the overhanging wall and kicking hard with my right foot as I jumped, gave me enough time to pull my right hand out of the pocket and latch for the next crimp. Instantly I jumped even too far missing the hold. After more tries we were unable to stick the crimp, but we were convinced we had figured out the beta for the dyno. I checked out the top part and once we got the sequence figured out, it didn't feel too bad, but could prove to be hard on the link.



Next day I got back to working on the crux dyno. I was getting closer and holding the crimp a little bit, but still unable to hold the swing. I started working on the lower part that leads up to the dyno. First two moves proved to be really hard again, followed by 6 slightly easier but tiring moves that lead to the crux dyno. All together the problem is 20 moves long, with hard climbed all teh way. It got dark and I had to pack my stuff unable to do the crux dyno or the first moves.


Working on the upper section


Working the first moves

After two days break from the project, we returned. Pretty quickly I managed to stick the crux dyno and climb to the top. I also did the first moves and managed to link it all the way from the start to the crux, but so tired that I really had no chance of trying the crux dyno.

Next day I started taking tries from the start, but got shut down really bad. Next day I came back feeling much stronger. After warming up I gave it a go from the start. I got through the first moves and the middle section. I set up for the dyno, jumped, got the crimp and held the swing for a moment, but then my hand exploded of the crimp. Second try I also made it to the crux dyno and stuck it. After a quick shake I fought my way to the very last lock-off. When working on the upper part, this move felt really easy once you got the drop-knee, but after 20 moves from the start something was different. I barely reached the intermediate and with my last strength deadpointed to the lip. I topped out completely pumped but pysched. I named the problem Ninja Skills and I think it's pretty solid at 8B+.


The crux dyno


The crux foothold

Luckily I sent it that day, because the cold front rolled in, taking over whole Switzerland. Chironico is currently too cold to climb in and Cresciano is the only place warm enough, so we've been climbing there for the past days. A couple days ago I climbed Mithril, 8B quite easily after trying it quite a few times over the last years. Today even Cresciano got snowed in so we decided it's time to flee the scene.

Our video camera broke due to a user malfunction (sorry Jarmo!), so no more filming. The movie should be out soon, once we get the finishing edits done. Of course Ninja Skills will also be in the film.

I'm hoping people will go and try Ninja Skills, since it's such an amazing piece of rock. Very close to it I put up another nice line called 'Ninja Warrior' 7C+. Here are instructions on how to get there:

Park in the village of Sobrio (on the other side of the valley from Chironico). Walk downhill following the hiking trail and signs for 'Scarti vegetali disposita'. After about 15 min you pass 'Scarti vegetali disposita' and follow the trail signs. After about 15 min more you arrive at an obvious 45 degree overhang on the right side of the path. Ninja Skills is 150 meters up and left from here. Ninja Warrior is 50 meters above Ninja Skills.


Here are some more screen grabs from the film:



 Last move of Ninja Skills, 8B+

 
 First ascent of Ninja Warrior, 7C+